Scootworks PhatRiser and PhatRiser II Installation Tips for Kawasaki 400, 800, 1500, and 1600
These instructions
are not all inclusive, there are simply too many accessories and variations
in manufacture of motorcycles to cover every possible alternative. However, we've
attempted to compile the most common issues and installation tips to assist in
installation of the Scootworks PhatRisers and PhatRisers II.
Before you begin,
read the following tips!
The
Scootworks Riser kits are supplied with a pair of allen bolts/washers, and a
pair of studs. Some installations require the use of the allen bolts/washers
in the off-center hole to insure adequate clearance between the risers and
Speedometer Nacelle. For other applications, you will install the studs in
the center hole, insert them through the triple tree, and install the washers
and your original nuts on the bottom. The center hole installation provides
a little more pullback, while the off-center hole provides additional
clearance for the speedometer nacelle. If installing using the center hole
w/studs, be sure to do a quick test to make sure there is no contact between
the risers and speedometer nacelle when the handlebars are turned full left
and right.
Vulcans are
notorious for having LARGE variations in nacelle and tank location. While
this poses no problem for the factory handlebar mounts, it can be a source of much
headache for aftermarket riser installation. For this reason, we have
designed risers that will allow for a considerable amount of adjustability in
mounting location. Prior to Installation on Vulcan 800's and Nomads, perform the
following: Remove the speedometer nacelle and saddle. Loosen the front gas
tank bolt (located under the nacelle), and the rear tank bolt (under the
front edge of the saddle). Pull rearward HARD, and retighten the tank bolts.
Next, reinstall the nacelle. Before tightening the Nacelle, make sure all
nacelle cover bolts are. Place one hand in front of the nacelle and pull
rearwards HARD. Tighten all nacelle bolts. Vulcan's are famous for variations
in the location of the gas tank/nacelle and this varies a LOT from bike to
bike. This adjustment will insure the most riser clearance possible.
'Rule of thumb' for
bolt/stud selection... As
mentioned before, the hardware for the Kawasaki Vulcan risers comes
with a pair of studs, and a pair of allen bolts. This allows for best mounting location of the
risers on your specific bike. Below is a simple list of what we've found to be the
_usual_ hardware configuration. This isn't cast in stone, as variations in bikes will
sometimes require alternate use of the other hardware supplied.
PhatRisers (standard)
Vulcan 400/800 "A" or Classic = off-center hole & allen bolts. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 400/800 Drifter = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 900 (all models) = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 1500 A/B/C/L = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 1500 Drifter = off-center hole & allen bolts. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 1500 Classic (carb'd) = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 1500 Classic FI = off-center hole & allen bolts. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan Nomad = off-center hole & allen bolts. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan Mean Streak 1500/1600 (allows for new handlebars) = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 1600 Classic = NOT RECOMMENDED
PhatRisers II
Vulcan 400/800 "A" or Classic = center hole & studs. Rerouting throttle, brake, and clutch required. Route clutch up rh frame downtube, between nacelle and triple tree, and on to clutch lever. Looks and works great in this position.
Vulcan 400/800 Drifter = center hole & studs. Rerouting throttle, brake, and clutch required. Route clutch up rh frame downtube, between nacelle and triple tree, and on to clutch lever. Looks and works great in this position.
Vulcan 900 (all models) = center hole & studs. Some rerouting required on rare occasions, varies from bike to bike.
Vulcan 1500 A/B/C/L = center hole & studs. Some rerouting required, varies from bike to bike.
Vulcan 1500 Drifter = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan 1500 Classic (carb'd) = center hole & studs. Minor rerouting required on some bikes.
Vulcan 1500 Classic FI = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan Nomad = off-center hole & allen bolts. Usually no rerouting required.
Vulcan Mean Streak 1500/1600 (allows for new handlebars) = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required (depending on handlebars selected).
Vulcan 1600 Classic = center hole & studs. Usually no rerouting required.
Begin installation...
Remove the windshield from the bike to make installation somewhat more easy. This also allows removal of the upper windshield bracket (the factory Kawasaki upper windshield bracket sometimes needs to be drilled slightly to accept our riser studs or mounting bolts).
Cover the gas tank with a towel or soft cloth. You'll thank us later, as things DO slip and fall that can/will scratch your tank!
Loosen and remove the nuts on the bottom of the stock risers. These are on the bottom side of the upper triple tree.
Remove any plugs from within the upper OEM handlebar clamps, and loosen the allen bolts.
Allow the handlebars to move downward and rest on the cloth that covers your gas tank.
Remove the handlebars from the stock clamps and place them gently on the tank.
Remove the stock handlebar clamps from the triple tree.
Remove the upper windshield bracket that is held in place by the OEM riser bolts. Test fit the new Scootworks riser studs and bolts, and enlarge the two holes in the upper windshield braket as needed to accept the studs.
Remove the OEM cable/hose/wire looms and discard. We dont use these, and it allows for a bit more of your hoses/cables/wiring to be used.
Install the new Scootworks risers, replace the windshield bracket (if used), and snug the riser nuts or bolts (depending on which you use)...but don't tighten yet...
Loosen and remove the upper handlebar clamps from both risers.
Place the handlebars into the riser's saddle (the receiver in the riser body where the handlebars sit). They should NOT drop into the saddle of the risers easily, but rather be sitting slightly high in the mount.
Secure the upper riser caps lightly with the top allen bolts supplied. Get on the bike, pull the bars to the desired position. Tighten the top caps EVENLY to pull the handlebars down into the riser saddle. Always be sure to tighten the clamps evenly as opposed to tightening one side a lot, then the other. Tighten the top caps to
10 ft/lbs. DO NOT USE ANY THREAD LOCKING COMPOUND! There should be a small space remaining between the upper cap and the body of the riser, to allow for full compressability of the bars into the riser saddle and a positive grasp of the bars.
Tighten the bottom riser nuts below the triple tree to
20 ft/lbs. DO NOT USE ANY THREAD LOCKING COMPOUND ON THE STUDS OR NUTS!. Double check all of the bolts one more time.
*** In the event you need to reroute cables or hoses (Kawasaki cables and hoses vary in length a bit), here's how we do it in the shop ***
Lift the front of the bike so there is no weight on the front wheel.
Remove the center pivot nut from the triple tree.
Loosen the pinch bolt on each side of the top triple tree.
Lift the triple tree up and off of the front end.
Pull the cables/wiring/hoses behind the triple tree.
Reinstall in reverse order.
*** Wiring...there is typically a large amount of extra wiring within the headlight bucket. One only needs to grasp the wiring sheathing, and pull gently. 1-3" of additional wiring is easlity found in most applications.
*** NOTES FOR CLEANING AND CARE
Cleaning the Scootworks BLACK risers is an easy chore. Simply wash them with soap and water, wax them with automotive wax. DO NOT use cleaners or waxes with abrasives or cleaning agents, and never use any type of buffing or polishing compound. The Black risers are powder coated with #130 high gloss powder coat, and the finish is baked on. This resulted in an extremely durable black finish, with a gloss that rivals the finest automotive paints.
Cleaning the Scootworks POLISHED risers is an easy chore. Simply wash them with soap and water, wax them with automotive wax. DO NOT use cleaners or waxes with abrasives or cleaning agents, and never use any type of buffing or polishing compound. The Polished risers are manufactured from T6 (6160) Aluminum billet, CAD designed and CNC manufactured for accuracy, and micropolished by hand for an unbelievable luster. Unlike chrome plating, this finish will never chip, peel, or rust. Scratches in chrome can never truly be removed Scratches and nicks in our Scootworks risers can be easily removed with aluminum polishing compound, and the beautiful luster can be restored at any time through the life of the riser by using a good grade of aluminum polish (we recommend LusterPad, see the sample included with your polished risers). A good coat of automotive wax will keep them looking beautiful, and minimize the polishing required.
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